Recessed Lighting Buying Guide: Wafer vs Can, Spacing, and Specs That Matter
Recessed lighting is the most popular lighting upgrade in Canadian homes — and the easiest to get slightly wrong. This guide covers wafer vs can, size selection, the spacing rule of thumb, IC/airtight ratings, and the specs that separate good pot lights from regrettable ones.
Modern wafer (slim) LEDs suit most renovations — no housing required, IC-rated for insulation contact, and CCT-selectable. Choose 4" for general residential, 6" for higher ceilings or wider spread. Spacing rule of thumb: ceiling height ÷ 2 = distance between lights (8 ft ceiling → ~4 ft apart), tightened over task areas.
Wafer vs can (traditional housing): which to buy
| Wafer / slim LED | Traditional can + trim | |
|---|---|---|
| Depth needed | ~1" (junction box remote) | 6"+ housing |
| Joist/HVAC conflicts | Rarely | Often |
| Insulation contact | IC-rated models standard | Must buy IC-rated housing |
| Bulb replacement | Integrated LED (replace unit) | Swap bulbs/trims |
| Retrofit friendliness | Excellent | Harder |
| Typical use today | Most homes | Specialty trims, adjustable gimbals |
Wafers won the market for a reason: they fit where cans can't, install faster, and current models are CCT-selectable (pick 2700K–5000K at install — see Colour Temperature Guide). Traditional housings still earn their place for adjustable/gimbal trims, wall-washing, and certain high-end optics.
Size: 4" vs 6" (and when 3" makes sense)
- 4" — the modern residential default: cleaner ceiling, tighter beam, scales well in multiples.
- 6" — wider spread; fewer units needed; better for 9 ft+ ceilings and large open areas.
- 3" / minis — accent niches, showers (wet-rated), tight architectural details.
Mixing sizes is fine by zone (6" general + 4" over the island), messy at random.
The spacing math (with the table)
Rule of thumb: ceiling height ÷ 2 = spacing between fixtures, and start the first row half that distance from the wall.
| Ceiling height | Spacing between lights | Distance from wall |
|---|---|---|
| 8 ft | ~4 ft | ~2 ft |
| 9 ft | ~4.5 ft | ~2.25 ft |
| 10 ft | ~5 ft | ~2.5 ft |
Tighten spacing over kitchen counters and task zones; widen slightly in hallways. Plan the layout on paper counting furniture — the classic regret is a perfect grid that puts a light directly above the TV (glare) and none over the reading chair. Total brightness math lives in Lumens vs Watts.
The spec checklist (what separates good from regrettable)
1. IC-rated + airtight — required where insulation touches the fixture (most Canadian ceilings below attics) and for building-envelope sealing. Non-IC fixtures in insulated ceilings are a heat problem. 2. Wet/damp rating where needed — showers and covered exterior soffits need the rating to match the location. 3. CCT-selectable — flexibility now, consistency later. Set every unit in a room to the same temperature. 4. CRI 90+ for kitchens and bathrooms. 5. Dimmer compatibility — integrated LEDs need a compatible dimmer; mismatches cause flicker (Why Do LED Lights Flicker?). Shop Leviton dimmers. 6. cUL/CSA certification — non-negotiable for inspection and insurance (what the marks mean). 7. Beam angle — wide (~90°+) for general light; narrower for accent.
Shop LED downlights and wafers and indoor lighting — Maple stocks CCT-selectable, IC-rated units from authorized-reseller inventory with CAD pricing and fast ON/QC shipping.
Installation notes (plan, don't DIY the wiring)
Recessed lighting circuits are electrical work — in Ontario that means ESA notification; in Quebec, licensed contractors (who can do what, by province). What you control is the plan: fixture count, layout, CCT, and having everything on site before the electrician arrives (What to Buy Before Your Electrician Arrives).
Common recessed lighting mistakes
- The "runway" — a rigid grid ignoring how the room is used
- Lights over the TV or directly above bed pillows
- Mixed CCTs in one ceiling (one 4000K unit in a 3000K room ruins all of it)
- Non-IC fixtures buried in insulation
- Skipping the dimmer in living spaces
- Buying 8 lights when the lumen math wanted 6 bigger ones — or vice versa
Frequently asked questions
How many pot lights do I need per room?
Do the lumen math (room sq ft × target lumens/sq ft ÷ lumens per fixture), then sanity-check with the spacing rule. A typical 12×12 living room at 8 ft lands around 4–6 four-inch wafers.
Are wafer lights as good as can lights?
For most homes, yes — modern wafers match output and beat cans on installation flexibility. Specialty optics and adjustable trims are the exceptions.
What colour temperature should pot lights be?
2700–3000K living spaces, 3000–4000K kitchens/baths, 4000K+ garages. Use CCT-selectable units and set them all the same per room.
Can I put recessed lights in a shower?
Only wet-rated fixtures, installed per code by a licensed electrician.
Do recessed lights need an electrician in Canada?
The wiring does — ESA notification in Ontario; licensed contractor in Quebec. The planning and purchasing you can absolutely do yourself.
What's the lifespan of an integrated LED wafer?
Typically rated 25,000–50,000 hours per manufacturer datasheets — years of normal use. When it eventually fails, the unit (not a bulb) is replaced, so keep the model info.
- Electrical Safety Authority (Ontario): esasafe.com
- ENERGY STAR Canada — certified lighting: natural-resources.canada.ca/energy-efficiency/energy-star-canada
- CSA Group: csagroup.org
- Manufacturer datasheets (output, ratings, lifespan)
Send Maple your room dimensions and ceiling height — we'll spec count, size, and spacing. Ask Maple
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